Step 1
Know Your Horse's Tree Width
This is the single most important specification. A saddle that bridges or pinches a horse's withers will create soreness, resistance, and eventually lameness — regardless of how well everything else fits. Get your horse measured before you shop.
Most NRCHA horses carry a semi-quarter horse (6"–6.5" gullet) or full quarter horse (6.5"+) tree. Heavily muscled horses that have been well-developed through training often need a wider tree than their breeding would suggest.
When in doubt, go wider. A slightly wide tree can be shimmed with a pad. A tree that pinches cannot be fixed without a full refluff or replacement — and a horse that's been ridden in an ill-fitting saddle takes weeks of correct work to come back to softness.
Step 2
Decide: Cow Horse, Crossover, or Reiner?
If you compete exclusively in NRCHA events and work cattle regularly, a purpose-built cow horse saddle gives you the seat balance and rigging position engineered for that work. If you split time between NRCHA and NRHA — or school reining patterns more than you work cattle — a quality crossover build like the Superior JK Cowhorse/Reiner serves both disciplines without sacrificing either.
Don't buy a dedicated reining saddle for cow horse work. The rigging position and seat balance compromises show up in your fence scores.
Step 3
Set a Realistic Budget
| Budget Range | What You Get |
|---|---|
| Under $1,500 | Entry-level factory production. Acceptable for learning. Outgrown quickly by serious competitors. |
| $1,500–$3,500 | Good used saddles from quality makers — Bob's Custom, Kyle Tack, Roohide. Excellent value in certified used. |
| $3,500–$6,000 | High-end used from Superior, Bob Avila signature builds, Martin Saddlery. Competition-proven makers. |
| $6,000+ | New custom builds from Superior Saddlery, or top-tier used with full silver. Heirloom quality. |
Step 4
Inspect Before You Buy
Used saddles need a proper inspection before purchase. These are the critical checkpoints:
Press down on each side of the fork. Any flex, creak, or movement means a broken tree. Do not buy a saddle with a broken tree — it cannot be economically repaired.
Surface wear is normal and expected. Look for cracking at the seat jockeys, fender fold creases, and rigging area — these are stress points where leather fails first.
Check dee rings for cracks or deformation. Inspect the latigo carrier and billet straps for dry rot or cut threads. Replace anything questionable before riding.
Place the saddle on the horse without a pad. You should see clear daylight through the entire gullet channel when viewed from front to back.
Step 5
Buy from a Specialist
General tack stores and online marketplaces sell saddles. A specialist sells the right saddle. David Solum has inspected and certified pre-owned reining and cow horse saddles for over 40 years, with deep NRCHA community connections that let him source quality inventory before it hits the open market.
